What is it? The bawdy, gastro-pubby current kitchen residency at much-loved Islington boozer the Compton Arms. Bag a table in the sun-trap garden (which is heated during those more chill moments of the year). 

Why we love it: Rake are Jay Claus and Syrus Pickhaver, two London chefs with some serious kitchen pedigree under their belts. They honed this project in the dining room of the dearly departed Gun pub in Hackney, and it is now at peak performance. The seasonal menu has just switched up for spring, and features buttermilk ranch cuttlefish salad, roasted courgette with wild garlic and Irish sheep labneh, as well as their quickly iconic ray wing tenders crumpet. We are, frankly, not worthy.

Time Out tip: Please order the deep fried cockles and clams on skewers, the best pub snack we may have ever encountered. Salty and vinegar-y and a bit like licking the edge of the ocean. 

Address: The Compton Arms, 4 Compton Ave, N1 2XD.

Opening hours: Kitchen open Wed-Sun. 

Expect to pay: Starters around £8, mains up to £20.